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What is Bevel Cut/Bias Cut?

When cutting on the bias, fabric is cut diagonally to the straight grain, making it more elastic and flowing.

Glossary illustration for Oblique cut/bias cut

Definition

A bias cut is usually at about a 45 degree angle to the warp and weft. In this direction, a woven fabric can stretch more and hug the body shape even though it has no stretch.

In simple words

Dresses, skirts or tops with diagonal cuts often appear soft, flexible and close to the body without being strongly shaped by darts. However, the fabric may lengthen or twist in inappropriate places when worn. Therefore, processing requires experience and the hem is often only finally leveled after a rest period.

What to pay attention to

  • Check that side seams hang straight and don’t spiral forward or back.
  • Make sure you have enough room to move because a soft fall does not automatically mean comfortable width.
  • If possible, store sensitive bias parts so that they do not hang out permanently.

Common misconceptions

Bias cut does not simply mean asymmetrical. The diagonal position of the pattern piece in the fabric is crucial.

ESKYNA mnemonic

The bias cut allows woven fabric to flow almost like a second skin - beautiful, but structurally demanding.